Scotty Depthmaster mounting

Waking this topic up instead of starting a new thread. 

I started working on mounting my downrigger yesterday.  I didn't want to go through the hull of the boat, since there isn't a way for me to get inside and use nuts, washers, or reinforcement of any kind.

I picked up a rubbermaid step, the kind you use to reach the top shelf in your kitchen, it holds my 200# butt, so it's sturdy enough.

To keep it secured to the kayak, I'm planning on running a Thule style tie down strap through the scupper holes just behind the seat, and strapping the step down.  I'm going to run the strap through the holes twice, and have it on each side of the downrigger.  (Tarpon 160)

I'm thinking it will create minimal drag, and make it easy to remove when I don't want it there.

Anyone see any flaws with this idea?

Also, I mounted the downrigger a little to the side on the step, so the weight/line will be closer to the boat and have a little less side pull.

That's really interesting! (and I mean that in a good way ) It's definitely worth the shot and worst case scenario, it leaves no trace. I don't quite follow you on your strapping scheme though

I'm going to run the strap through the holes twice, and have it on each side of the downrigger.  (Tarpon 160)

but the overall idea sounds like it should work. I assume the step fits the tankwell and as I think of it, that should be slicker 'n snot!

are you mounting the depthmaster on the chair? the only issue I would see would be possibly raising the center of gravity in the boat, making it less stable & more likely to dump in lumpy water.

I'd keep things as low as possible.

J

Also-

I use cherry rivets to secure accessories to the boat in places I can't access for nuts & bolts. Most of the flush mounts I've installed behind the seat have been done with rivets, I put a piece of neoprene foam between whatever accessory and the boat, and glue both sides with mondo bond for the super-dry-gasket effect.

Works well.

J

I don't think I'd secure through the scupper holes.  They are not meant to take the load and are a notorious weak spot on all poly-SOT yaks.

-Allen

Can't you rivet in pad eyes and secure the step like Zee does his bait tank?

-Allen

I'm mounting in the same location that Zee did.  The step I'm using is ~6-8 inches high, and appears to be be much shorter than Zee's Tankwell (I bought it short because I was concerned about stability as well).  I can't mount to the actual deck without something to raise the DR up a bit, because the arm won't reach over the side that way.

I have some eye holes I can go through that are built in to the slide trax.  Problem though - I looked all around and couldn't find straps with hooks that fit in there.  Maybe some 550 cord through the eye holes, then strap through the 550 Cord?  If you know where I can find those straps (and I have to have them by Wednesday night!), I'll get them     Are the scupper holes really so weak that a 1" wide strap will compromise them?

To clarify my current plan, I'm running the strap through the scupper hole, under the boat, then back up through the other scupper, and over the top of the step mount - twice, with the strap going in front, and behind the DR.

I think secruing to the pad eyes is a much better idea. Not only do straps going around the bottom of the yak weaker but the strap/rope will create a lot more drag than you might think. Since trolling for salmon equals a lot of miles, cutting down on drag pays dividends.

I made those straps for my DR from some parts at REI and put them together with a regular sewing machine. I'd guess most outdoor stores carry webbing and snaps. Also, if there's some way to add a rubber foot to the bottom of your base I think it'll also do a great job of keeping things solid. Look forward to the finished product. We want pics!

Z

Brass clips ...  I use this style.  You can get them at any old hardware store.



-Allen

The step has rubber feet built into it!  I really think the step is a great base for mounting.  Guess rubbermaid doesn't like people to slide around when reaching for the top shelf 

Gonna grab some hooks and straps, and send pictures tonight hopefully.

all I have to do now is mount my rod holder and depthfinder.  I think my slide trax board should arrive today, so maybe I'll get that done today as well. 

Mission complete.  Except I need a new 3amp fuse... Don't ask.

Why don't Eagle Cudas come with the hardware for the unit mount?!



Passed the 'Lab' test - picked the kayak up with it

Looks great. Nice work. Although I'd get rid of the DR arm rod holder. You need to see what's going on with your rod tip while trolling so putting your rod in the front rod holder is important. Look forward to hearing about results!

Z

Leaving that rod holder there, I'm going to put a spare rod or my net in it.

Leaving that rod holder there, I'm going to put a spare rod or my net in it.

Roger.

Z

That looks good! Should work great, but you might want to be really careful of the wali especially with the rod mount on the arm.

Zee:
Would that DR work as well with a shorter arm, or would that make reaching it more difficult? I ask because I'd think it'd move the load a bit closer to the centerline.