Rookie could use some advice and pics would be great

Received and installed my anchor trolley on my yak a couple of days ago. Today, all of the anchor stuff I ordered arrived, but I'm not certain what the best way to assemble an anchor line is. I understand the anchor rope gets looped and passes through the 2" ring on the trolley to move it from bow to stern and everywhere in between. I added a zig-zag type rope cleat to fasten it to while stationary, but here's the mystery.   Do you yak veterans typically add a carabiner to the tag end or a way to attach the end after the cleat? I plan on having a crab cage float on the end for recovery and was thinking a clip would be cleaner than a knot, but am open to suggestions and as mentioned in the title, pictures and or illustrations are welcome. I can even follow a link if that's easier...Thanks!!

Are you trying to be able to use your anchor as a quick-release style anchor system with your anchor trolly?

I have dog leash style or bigger clips on everything.  I never tie a knot in a line on the water.  You might want to use a stainless carabiner instead of a 2" ring.  Much easier to snap the line into.  The last photo shows the carabiner - the flipper should be, and is now, up.  Photo above that shows a nice brass clip style. 

http://www.demonick.com/kayak/Anchor.Trolley/Anchor.Trolley.html

Are you trying to be able to use your anchor as a quick-release style anchor system with your anchor trolly?

Yes rawk, was hoping to as it looks like a clean way to go. Right after starting this thread, I did some more searching and the rope looped and passed through the stainless steel ring seems to be the part I didn't get.

So from the anchor is rope (assuming no chain), looped and passed through the s/s ring. Anchor side of rope through zig-zak cleat out the other side to other end of rope where there's a float and a clip or carabiner at the end? Terrible explanation, but that's why I was hoping for some pics or illustrations. I guess one of my big concern is, fifty feet of rope and anchored in shallow water. That means the remainder of the rope, on slack side of the cleat is presumably laying loose for quick release or is it coiled or what ??

http://www.demonick.com/kayak/Anchor.Trolley/Anchor.Trolley.html

Thanks to you too demonick. I followed the link and had actually followed it previously from some other place on the forum. I've got the trolley system installed and it works great. Where I'm uncertain is the actual anchor rope. I've researched a bunch here, other forums and online in general and have read so much, I think I'm on information overload. I think I even remember a guy saying he used an electrical spool for his anchor line, the kind for an extension cord or x-mas lights. I also recall some of the comments were in reference to having that set up dragging in the water. I was hoping that maybe someone will post (maybe several someone's) a picture or provide a link to pictures, illustrations or whatever that shows the entire anchor rope, from the anchor to the other end and everything (chains, floats, carabiners, etc) in between. If not, its not a big deal and it'll probably all come to me in a brilliant flash at 2am, like most things.

http://www.demonick.com/kayak/Anchor.Trolley/Anchor.Trolley.html

Thanks to you too demonick. I followed the link and had actually followed it previously from some other place on the forum. I've got the trolley system installed and it works great. Where I'm uncertain is the actual anchor rope. I've researched a bunch here, other forums and online in general and have read so much, I think I'm on information overload. I think I even remember a guy saying he used an electrical spool for his anchor line, the kind for an extension cord or x-mas lights. I also recall some of the comments were in reference to having that set up dragging in the water. I was hoping that maybe someone will post (maybe several someone's) a picture or provide a link to pictures, illustrations or whatever that shows the entire anchor rope, from the anchor to the other end and everything (chains, floats, carabiners, etc) in between. If not, its not a big deal and it'll probably all come to me in a brilliant flash at 2am, like most things.

I am installing a new trolley system on my Outback tomorrow.  It is similar to the one on my wooden yak.  I have anchored in both the Willamette and the Columbia with it and have had no problems.  I will take some photos for you.  I basically have 300 feet of 3/16" rope on an electrical spool.  I tied one end to the spool and wound up the rope.  The other end passes through a crab buoy and is tied to the anchor.  This way the buoy can slide freely up the rope as I scope out line.  When I wind rope back in, it passes through the center of the buoy.  I have a separate 10 foot (or so) piece of rope that has a clip on one end. This is what connects the kayak to the spool/buoy. When I have the desired amount of rope scoped out, I clip the rope to the spool rope in a way that no more rope can unroll (I will need a photo for this to be visualized).  Then I toss the spool in the water along with the buoy.  The spool and rope are buoyant. The other end of this rope passes though the ring on the trolley and is held in place by a jam cleat.  Then, I pull the ring either fore or aft depending on how I want to be anchored.

On my wooden yak, I have a trolley on both sides.  While sturgeon fishing last year, I would anchor off one side aft, and then run a drift sock up front on the opposite side.  This held me nice and straight in the river.  Therefore, my bait and weights did not roll around on the bottom as much.

-Craig

Thanks Craig. Doing even more browsing, I just saw pictures of a similar set up. Again, the big concern there was the spool dragging in the water (leashed to the kayak), but there was a good picture of the clip passed through the rope and spool so it wouldn't let out any more rope. Glad to see your pics when you get a chance.  Dave

I clip the rope to the spool rope in a way that no more rope can unroll (I will need a photo for this to be visualized).

Actually, the last picture in the Bsteves anchor system is how I do it, as well.  I hope that helps with the visualization.  I tested a mock-up using the existing jam cleat  for the rudder up control on my Outback while on the Columbia River.  It worked great, so I don't need to add another jam cleat.  I will try to get some pictures for you tomorrow.

-Craig 

Here's a link to some of the better pics and the specific thread I was talking about.

http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,2041.0.html

Craig...even more searching and found this picture. This appears to be a lot like what you described or at least, how I invisioned it. this actually looks like a decent system, I just wish there was a way to keep the spool out of the water, to reduce noise and drag. Also don't want all that rope on the deck so guess this would be the lesser of two evils.

Craig...even more searching and found this picture. This appears to be a lot like what you described or at least, how I invisioned it. this actually looks like a decent system, I just wish there was a way to keep the spool out of the water, to reduce noise and drag. Also don't want all that rope on the deck so guess this would be the lesser of two evils.

I haven't noticed much drag or noise.  I have never had trouble anchoring with it in the Willamette, even during high winter flows.  The only time I had a problem was when I used too heavy of a zip tie.  I had even scored it partially with a knife and still had trouble breaking it free so I could pull the anchor free from the bottom end.  Now, I tie the rope to the top of the anchor using 20 lb test.  Deep Color suggested the 20 lb test to me during the Sturgeon Derby. Thanks DC.

Never had it break when I didn't want it to, and it breaks when I need it to break.  In the Willamette I use a 5 lb claw anchor and the rope is tied to the loop at the bottom of the anchor. The 20lb test holds it tight to the top. 

When on the Columbia, I had it rigged the same way, but I was told that my 5 lb claw may not grab well enough.  So, I used a 15 lb boat anchor.  It worked great. I also threw a boat bumper in-line to add a little more flotation to the buoy end.  I don't know if it was necessary, but  I had it so I used it. It was actually quite easy to retrieve. That being said, I was in less than 30 feet of water.   Next time, I may try it without the bumper.  Here is a photo of the entire system I used on the Columbia about two weeks ago: 


 The claw I use in the Willamette for sturgeon fishing is included on the lower right.  You can see the attachment point on the bottom of the claw.  I have never used any other flotation than the crab buoy on the Willamette.

Sorry about the weird perspective of the photos.  I was too lazy to take it off my trailer.  Here is the trolley view from the front:

and rear:

I used Harken Blocks for the pullies like Hobie uses in their kit.  I mounted them a little over 1 foot from the bow and stern.
Towards the front, I used a cable clamp attached via a stainless bolt and a nylock nut to keep the trolley from popping up onto the deck.  I got a bag cheap at Home Depot.

On the rear paddle keeper, I attached a bungee button with a stainles bolt and a well nut to assist in keeping the trolley from popping up onto the deck.

There is a nylon ring that guides the rope that connects the kayak to the anchor system.  The rope runs through this ring, up through a padeye (which I had previously installed to attach a rod leash), and then to the "rudder down" jam cleat.  Because the rope is thicker than the "rudder down" cable, neither interfere with each other.  I always keep the rudder down when I am anchored.  It a helps me hold my position.  When I need to get off anchor, a quick vertical tug is all it takes and everything slides free. The rope does not interfere with using the rod holder either.

Here is how it looks when the anchor is deployed to the aft.  This is why the padeye is necessary.  The jam cleat would not work without the padeye when the anchor is deployed aft.


The padeye has an aluminum backing plate I made from an aluminum bar.  I was somewhat worried there would be a lot of tension on it when anchored on the Columbia, but there wasn't.  I believe the buoys take most of the force from the current.  When I would pull on the rope, it felt similar to being tied to a dock.

I hope this was somewhat helpful.

-Craig

I hope this was somewhat helpful.

-Craig

It's all very helpful and I appreciate your time. I had ordered some stuff to make an anchor line, along with a trolley system that I already installed. Yesterday I went to and spent entirely too much money at the Alder Creek Yard Sale. I got a good deal on a bent shaft/handle Werner paddle from one of the employees who was selling his personal paddle and an entire Yakima system for carrying two yaks. I only have one kayak (so far...lol) and it usually just goes into the back of my full sized truck at an angle. The woman I bought the Yakima system from had taken it off of a Lexus SUV so future modifications are pending. For the trolley system, I picked up some j-clips to hold the trolley system down and from jumping up on the deck. I'll have to get some pictures together and get them posted of how it all turned out. Today I bought and modified some electrical cord winders and have begun putting the anchor lines together.

I was going to get an earlier start, but made the mistake of going on Craig's List earlier in the day. That's not usually too bad, but I had been sort of watching for, and am now the proud owner of a 9.9 hp Johnson outboard motor. It's for a project aluminum boat that I've also got going, for those rare times when I feel the need to have company on the water.

Thanks again Craig for all the effort and getting me on the right path. I'll get some pics posted in the next few days of th results...Dave

No problem, and congrats on finding some good deals.