Your Thoughts On This Configuration to Haul My Kayaks On My Truck Rack

So after putting my Hobie on and off the Thule racks on my truck a couple of different times and dealing with the struggle, Mojo gave me an idea that is easier and will save my back in the long run.  Instead of having the racks extended all the way up and putting the kayak on so it overhangs the cab, keep the racks lower so that the kayak will just clear the truck box.  I tried this setup today and it it MUCH easier to load and unload the kayak but the kayak sits further back on the rack and isn't centered on the rack with equal overhang at the front and back.  I strapped it down in the new lower configuration and it is solid and not going anywhere, as long as the straps don't let loose for some unknown reason.

My question to you all, what are your thoughts?  Will this be ok or should I deal with the higher and harder loading option and hope my back holds out...

I would run a bow line tied to the front crossbar.  If there was a strap failure, the kayak should remain on the racks and not into the windshield following you.

Will the "hang over" beyond the bumper require flagging?

@alpalmer
I always use a cable lock on the boat for safety and theft reasons.  If the straps do let loose for some reason the cable lock will keep it  attached to the rack.  I also will use a flag if I run it like this. 

@deptrai
I can lower the rack with the kayak on it but I haven't tried to raise them with it on.  I can tell you that the rack doesn't raise and lower very easily.  They tend to bind up if not done exactly at the same time.

I know several people who have broken the rear window of the cab of their pickup with the bow or stern of a kayak, either while loading the kayak into the back of their pickup, or when braking.  So be careful when loading your kayak, and consider installing a leash which prevents the end of your kayak from contacting your rear window.

I know several people who have broken the rear window of the cab of their pickup with the bow or stern of a kayak, either while loading the kayak into the back of their pickup, or when braking.  So be careful when loading your kayak, and consider installing a leash which prevents the end of your kayak from contacting your rear window.

Ray we could always make you custom headache rack for your truck.

pmmpete's comment about the kayak sliding into the rear window is worth considering.

Even with my T13 overhanging the cab of my tiny short-bed Nissan, there's more kayak hanging off the back of the racks than off the front.  I've been using 2 additional load straps, threaded through the kayak's side handles to the frontmost and most rearward tie downs in the truck bed to keep the kayak from moving front-to-back or skewing from side-to-side, and it seems to be working just fine for me.

Rigging something that would prevent the bow from ever touching the rear glass shouldn't be tough and shouldn't (sorrry Mojo) require welding.

ADDED LATER:  Wanted to make sure you know my T13 rides higher in the air and above the rear window before any glass shatters.  I'm innocent, I tell ya'  Innocent!

I would have to agree to add a headache rack to avoid making confetti out of your rear window in either position you choose for your rack height. 

I know several people who have broken the rear window of the cab of their pickup with the bow or stern of a kayak, either while loading the kayak into the back of their pickup, or when braking.  So be careful when loading your kayak, and consider installing a leash which prevents the end of your kayak from contacting your rear window.

Who needs a kayak for that?   Seems fairly easy  to back into an overhanging tree branch...

I added a Yakima Boatloader EVO slide out to the lumber rack. Having a small step ladder makes it easier. It also helps to keep the slide out treated with a silicone lubricant.

I would have to agree to add a headache rack to avoid making confetti out of your rear window in either position you choose for your rack height.

Check your auto insurance policy closely.  Can't find the thread to post a link to it, but there was a discussion in NCKA about adding light bars to a truck became an external frame and fiddled with insurance coverage.

Who needs a kayak for that?   Seems fairly easy  to back into an overhanging tree branch...

Yep.

I tried this setup today and it it MUCH easier to load and unload the kayak but the kayak sits further back on the rack and isn't centered on the rack with equal overhang at the front and back.  I strapped it down in the new lower configuration and it is solid and not going anywhere, as long as the straps don't let loose for some unknown reason.

My question to you all, what are your thoughts?  Will this be ok or should I deal with the higher and harder loading option and hope my back holds out...

Is it primarily because of storage space that you don't just put it in the bed of your truck? I know a few guys that do that <cough>Nobaddays</cough> and I'm always jealous at the 3 minutes it takes them to load up and be ready to leave (meanwhile I'm still trying to get feeling back to my legs).

I have ladder racks with saddles up top. Step one is to load the boat into the bed. Step 2 lift the bow up and onto the front pads - this is where I have the rollers. Step 3 is push the boat from the rear up on the front rollers until the stern clears the rear rack. Step 4 is roll the boat to the rear and settle on the back pads. Strap down etc.

I couldn't do the above if the rack wasn't ABOVE the roofline. My approach means there is no glass risk and the stern of the boat is within a foot of the rear bumper - but I flag it anyway for no reason other than I have the flag anyway.

I only do this when I am moving 2 boats. When it is just my boat she rides in the bed. I torqued by back real good a few TBMD's ago putting my Outback up on the bars alone, but my wife's Sport is a piece of cake.

I put a set of bars and roller/pads set on my teardrop so I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of putting the boat up top of the truck when towing.

I will admit that my wife is encouraging me to move to a trailer for when we go, so I am actively cogitating on the design of a 2 boat float-on/float-off kayak trailer. Obviously this only works for day trips and not when also towing an RV.

I always haul hull down because of all the attachments on my gunwales prevents sliding the boat on the rails. Ram balls, eye pads, etc.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions. 

I have ladder racks with saddles up top. Step one is to load the boat into the bed. Step 2 lift the bow up and onto the front pads - this is where I have the rollers. Step 3 is push the boat from the rear up on the front rollers until the stern clears the rear rack. Step 4 is roll the boat to the rear and settle on the back pads. Strap down etc.

I couldn't do the above if the rack wasn't ABOVE the roofline. My approach means there is no glass risk and the stern of the boat is within a foot of the rear bumper - but I flag it anyway for no reason other than I have the flag anyway.

I only do this when I am moving 2 boats. When it is just my boat she rides in the bed. I torqued by back real good a few TBMD's ago putting my Outback up on the bars alone, but my wife's Sport is a piece of cake.

I put a set of bars and roller/pads set on my teardrop so I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of putting the boat up top of the truck when towing.

I will admit that my wife is encouraging me to move to a trailer for when we go, so I am actively cogitating on the design of a 2 boat float-on/float-off kayak trailer. Obviously this only works for day trips and not when also towing an RV.

I always haul hull down because of all the attachments on my gunwales prevents sliding the boat on the rails. Ram balls, eye pads, etc.

Thats how I load the kayaks, just how you described but I was looking for an easier way and this way seems to fit the bill, though I'm not 100% sold on it.

I tried this setup today and it it MUCH easier to load and unload the kayak but the kayak sits further back on the rack and isn't centered on the rack with equal overhang at the front and back.  I strapped it down in the new lower configuration and it is solid and not going anywhere, as long as the straps don't let loose for some unknown reason.

My question to you all, what are your thoughts?  Will this be ok or should I deal with the higher and harder loading option and hope my back holds out...

Is it primarily because of storage space that you don't just put it in the bed of your truck? I know a few guys that do that <cough>Nobaddays</cough> and I'm always jealous at the 3 minutes it takes them to load up and be ready to leave (meanwhile I'm still trying to get feeling back to my legs).

Yes, its mostly for storage space.  When I go camping and have the kayak I'd like to be able to put equipment in the bed and have the tailgate up so stuff dont go sliding out.  If I'm just going fishing for a day and its just me in the truck then i'll just strap it down in the bed already rigged and ready to launch.

I have ladder racks with saddles up top. Step one is to load the boat into the bed. Step 2 lift the bow up and onto the front pads - this is where I have the rollers. Step 3 is push the boat from the rear up on the front rollers until the stern clears the rear rack. Step 4 is roll the boat to the rear and settle on the back pads. Strap down etc.

Good idea. I'm moving my rollers to the front bar also.

 Be sure to run a tie down from the bow handle to the crossbar to save your back window if you have to get on the binders hard, or get a headache rack.  I wouldn't go cross country like that, but an hour or two trip it'll be fine.  Fly a flag on the rear handle.