DIY Kayak Trailer for about $200

Here's my trailer that can carry up to 3 kayaks.  The basic 8' utility trailer kit is a http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html.  I lengthened the tongue by "splicing' 2x4's.  I added a 1x4 framework to support up to 2 additional kayaks above the trailer proper.  The vertical 1x4's at the corners fit into sockets in the trailer framework.


The 1x4 framework is braced with diagonal 1x4's, longitudinally, and 1x4 corner braces transversely.  Otherwise, it would be wobbly. 

The corner braces interfere with my Scotty rod holders, so I can't leave them in place. Working on a fix for this.  Maybe lengthen the transverse 1x4's that support the top-loaded kayaks and brace from the outside.  But, this would take up more room in an already congested garage.  Hmmm.  I'd really like to have my kayak mostly outfitted when I transport to the water.  I don't carry more than one kayak very often, so I could just remove the upper framework, but where to stow it....

Here I am, fully outfitted, including camera on mount to my right and one on bill of my cap. Rods installed in the holders on fishing crate.  I'm fiddling with my Garmin eTrex GPS.  This was on Dec 28, 3013, at a launch on Lake Griffin, Fruitland Park, FL.



No, didn't catch a single fish in about 3 hours.  It's not about catchin'.  It's the adventure.

How long have you run that trailer and how has it held up?  Using wood is not something I would have guessed would hold up to the strain and stress of a trailer application, but I have no direct experience to base that belief on.

-Allen

I like it, full marks for design and cost minimization.  My feeling it would be better to have a trailer shop extend the tongue by welding in a piece of steel channel and I would probably make the vertical supports out of 2x4s just for extra stiffness... cheers, roger 

How long have you run that trailer and how has it held up?  Using wood is not something I would have guessed would hold up to the strain and stress of a trailer application, but I have no direct experience to base that belief on.

-Allen

Been using it about 9 months. Remember ships and wagons were once made of wood.   

I like it, full marks for design and cost minimization.  My feeling it would be better to have a trailer shop extend the tongue by welding in a piece of steel channel and I would probably make the vertical supports out of 2x4s just for extra stiffness... cheers, roger

Yea, I'd rather have a steel-tongue extension of the same shape as the original.  Even thought about getting a tongue off of a discarded boat trailer. As for the upright stakes being made of 2x4's, I'd have to rabbit the ends, as the stake sockets are for 1x4's.  It's pretty sturdy, as braced, however.

Thanks for the comments.

Been using it about 9 months. Remember ships and wagons were once made of wood.   

Sure, but they didn't bump along a highway at 55.  And they haven't seen regular use in over 100 years (wooden wagons/trailers anyways).  Why is that?

But anyways, like I said, I have no experience with this, so take my ramblings for what they are worth.   

-Allen

As for the upright stakes being made of 2x4's, I'd have to rabbit the ends, as the stake sockets are for 1x4's.  It's pretty sturdy, as braced, however.

Thanks for the comments.

ah, that explains using 1x4's; I am using the slightly larger Harbor Freight trailer (~$275) and the stake sockets are sized for 2x4's, it is also just long enough to not require extending the tongue for a 14' Oasis...cheers, roger

As for the upright stakes being made of 2x4's, I'd have to rabbit the ends, as the stake sockets are for 1x4's.  It's pretty sturdy, as braced, however.

ah, that explains using 1x4's; I am using the slightly larger Harbor Freight trailer (~$275) and the stake sockets are sized for 2x4's, it is also just long enough to not require extending the tongue for a 14' Oasis...cheers, roger

Good job.  I tow with Subaru Forester, which is a hatchback.  The tongue must extend past the bow of the boat(s) to allow opening the hatch.  I like that you can use the factory tongue, however.

Thanks for the post. If anyone cares I'm in the middle of a build off the same kit but going a different direction with it. My goal is to keep it under $300. Will post when complete.

One thing's for sure: if the distance between hitch and axle is short, the trailer is very difficult to back up.  It'll jackknife on you in a heartbeat.    I'd lengthen the tongue on one of these Harbor Freight utility trailers just to make it easier to back.  Embarrassing to be on a public ramp and not be able to back your trailer.

Jerry, light trailers can bounce pretty badly on bumpy roads.  I'd worry that your trailer might tip over on its side on bumpy roads when carrying a second kayak on its upper bar, due to its narrow wheel base and the amount of weight up high.  I think it would be better to strap the kayaks into cradles which hold them as low as possible, either on their gunwales, on their bottoms, or on their sides.  I like rogerdodger's setup better than your double-decker setup.

Jerry, light trailers can bounce pretty badly on bumpy roads.  I'd worry that your trailer might tip over on its side on bumpy roads when carrying a second kayak on its upper bar, due to its narrow wheel base and the amount of weight up high.  I think it would be better to strap the kayaks into cradles which hold them as low as possible, either on their gunwales, on their bottoms, or on their sides.  I like rogerdodger's setup better than your double-decker setup.

Might.  Definitely more stable low. I travel on paved, flat roads.  If I had to swerve, yes: flipty-do.

Jerry, light trailers can bounce pretty badly on bumpy roads.  I'd worry that your trailer might tip over on its side on bumpy roads when carrying a second kayak on its upper bar, due to its narrow wheel base and the amount of weight up high.  I think it would be better to strap the kayaks into cradles which hold them as low as possible, either on their gunwales, on their bottoms, or on their sides.  I like rogerdodger's setup better than your double-decker setup.

Just FYI:

There are a bunch of kayak trailer builds online from this kit. One guy up in QA had 3 stacks of kayaks on this frame, top was well over 6 feet high. I actually emailed him and asked how it did in wind and bad roads. He said he'd been using it for 10 years, including up the gorge and over to the coast with no problems.

It looked like it would flip in a heartbeat to me!

Unless there is extreme maneuvering involved, that trailer is not flipping.  That trailer is over 4.5 feet wide and those boats don't have nearly the mass to cause a roll.  There are lots of folks that err on the side of caution, EXTREME caution, on these boards.  Not that it's bad, just a little much sometimes.  If you were really concerned with it being top heavy,a properly secured dumbbell, steel plate, etc., could be placed on the bottom rack beside the other yak.

It's a nice little setup.  Keep your eyes on all the nuts and bolts, as well as the wood, for being loose and/or wearing out.  Also, check those axles frequently on long trips.  8 inch wheels can heat up quickly at high speeds.

Jerry, light trailers can bounce pretty badly on bumpy roads.  I'd worry that your trailer might tip over on its side on bumpy roads when carrying a second kayak on its upper bar, due to its narrow wheel base and the amount of weight up high.  I think it would be better to strap the kayaks into cradles which hold them as low as possible, either on their gunwales, on their bottoms, or on their sides.  I like rogerdodger's setup better than your double-decker setup.

Just FYI:

There are a bunch of kayak trailer builds online from this kit. One guy up in QA had 3 stacks of kayaks on this frame, top was well over 6 feet high. I actually emailed him and asked how it did in wind and bad roads. He said he'd been using it for 10 years, including up the gorge and over to the coast with no problems.

It looked like it would flip in a heartbeat to me!

I worked in the naval nuclear business for 40 years as a structural engineer.  There is no industry that regulates more for the safety of the public, IMHO.  Yet, there are still events that can produce tragedies.  Just not many, fortunately.  It has become impractical to build a nuclear power plant, as a consequence.  My response is already too philosophical, but there are risks associated with every endeavour.  Balance, that is the goal.  For instance, we could not afford housing if the codes were written (or could be written) such that the structure would NEVER fail.  I think I'll have another glass of Merlot.  It's 6:42 in Florida.