DIY Kayak Trailer for about $200

I used the HF trailer also, went to the local steel supply shop and bought a longer piece and replaced the original tongue and added support members forming the A-frame.  I added the box to carry the gear and tackle. 

Unless there is extreme maneuvering involved, that trailer is not flipping.  That trailer is over 4.5 feet wide and those boats don't have nearly the mass to cause a roll.  There are lots of folks that err on the side of caution, EXTREME caution, on these boards.  Not that it's bad, just a little much sometimes.  If you were really concerned with it being top heavy,a properly secured dumbbell, steel plate, etc., could be placed on the bottom rack beside the other yak.

It's a nice little setup.  Keep your eyes on all the nuts and bolts, as well as the wood, for being loose and/or wearing out.  Also, check those axles frequently on long trips.  8 inch wheels can heat up quickly at high speeds.

Lee,

That's what concerns me most: the little wheels and the risk of overheating.  Reminds me: I've got to put some more grease in through the fitting on the inside of the wheels.  I often feel the hubs to see if they are hot.  I would not opt to take the Interstates for that reason.   I don't often drive more than an hour to my launch, however, and usually less.  There are many lakes in the Orlando area where one can Bass fish, so it is not necessary to drive for a long time.  I loaded my yaks on top of the SUV for years.  Beat the hell out of the SUV in the process.  This little trailer has been the ticket. 

Unless there is extreme maneuvering involved, that trailer is not flipping.  That trailer is over 4.5 feet wide and those boats don't have nearly the mass to cause a roll.  There are lots of folks that err on the side of caution, EXTREME caution, on these boards.  Not that it's bad, just a little much sometimes.  If you were really concerned with it being top heavy,a properly secured dumbbell, steel plate, etc., could be placed on the bottom rack beside the other yak.

It's a nice little setup.  Keep your eyes on all the nuts and bolts, as well as the wood, for being loose and/or wearing out.  Also, check those axles frequently on long trips.  8 inch wheels can heat up quickly at high speeds.

My trailer had 12" wheels, keeping the bearings greased and they ran great on the highways. 

I used the HF trailer also, went to the local steel supply shop and bought a longer piece and replaced the original tongue and added support members forming the A-frame.  I added the box to carry the gear and tackle. 

Good looking trailer! The steel tubing for tongue and braces is the ideal.

Unless there is extreme maneuvering involved, that trailer is not flipping.  That trailer is over 4.5 feet wide and those boats don't have nearly the mass to cause a roll.  There are lots of folks that err on the side of caution, EXTREME caution, on these boards.  Not that it's bad, just a little much sometimes.  If you were really concerned with it being top heavy,a properly secured dumbbell, steel plate, etc., could be placed on the bottom rack beside the other yak.

It's a nice little setup.  Keep your eyes on all the nuts and bolts, as well as the wood, for being loose and/or wearing out.  Also, check those axles frequently on long trips.  8 inch wheels can heat up quickly at high speeds.

My trailer had 12" wheels, keeping the bearings greased and they ran great on the highways.

Agree, most reports online (I did a lot of homework before and after buying my kit) report success even with the 8" wheels as long as they were properly greased the first time (they do not come greased in the kit and you must do the initial pack). One important consideration is that even with 2 or 3 kayaks and some gear you're not going to be hitting the limit of what the trailer is rated for, which is probably conservative to begin with. It's rated for 870lbs... let's say you have 300lbs of kayaks, 200lbs of gear, and 100lbs of extra tongue and bracing. You're still only up to 600 lbs, and I bet most people don't have 200 lbs of gear!

For some reference: My dad has a 4x8 kit trailer with little 12" wheels that has gone back and forth across the country twice, one of those 3000 mile legs the trailer was definitely loaded to capacity, as well as using it to haul small loads of firewood and misc junk across Oregon and around town. He's had it for 20 years with no problems. I think he just swapped out the bearings last year for the first time. They had to have had 20k miles on them.

YMMV!

Unless there is extreme maneuvering involved, that trailer is not flipping.  That trailer is over 4.5 feet wide and those boats don't have nearly the mass to cause a roll.  There are lots of folks that err on the side of caution, EXTREME caution, on these boards.  Not that it's bad, just a little much sometimes.  If you were really concerned with it being top heavy,a properly secured dumbbell, steel plate, etc., could be placed on the bottom rack beside the other yak.

It's a nice little setup.  Keep your eyes on all the nuts and bolts, as well as the wood, for being loose and/or wearing out.  Also, check those axles frequently on long trips.  8 inch wheels can heat up quickly at high speeds.

My trailer had 12" wheels, keeping the bearings greased and they ran great on the highways. 

I was responding to the original post.  His trailer has 8 inch wheels.

Took the top frame off and replaced with 2-3" PVC pipes on the trailer bed.

Accommodates two kayaks:


Using 36" rubber straps to secure each yak at PVC pipes.  Also using lines to restrain forward and aft motion of yaks. 

Beats car topping.

I bet most people don't have 200 lbs of gear!

You must not have been out crabbing with us yet. The last time out, I had my Ocean Kayak Trident T-11. As we were launching, Craig asked me, "Isn't the logo supposed to be above the water line?" 

Jerry, three suggestions about your trailer:

1. Because you have the kayaks sitting on round pipes, all the weight of the kayaks is on one small point on the pipe.  And because you carry the kayaks upright on the trailer, all the weight of the kayaks is also at one point on the hull of the kayak, such as the keel or some other high point.  So you're likely to end up deforming the hulls of your kayaks.  I suggest that you replace the PVC pipes with (a) flat boards padded with outdoor carpet, or better yet (b) cradles made out of wood which are padded with foam and/or carpet, or better yet (c) commercially available car top kayak cradles.

2. I suggest that you use boat straps rather than rubber bungies to attach your kayaks to the trailer. Rubber bungies are dangerous because if one becomes unhooked, the end of the bungie can fly back and hit you in the face or eye.  Rubber bungies are also not as secure as boat straps. 

3. More tiedowns are better than less tie downs, so the kayaks can't squirt out from under their straps, and so if one strap or rope breaks, the kayak will still be attached with at least two other straps or ropes.  Put two boat straps around each kayak, attach the noses of the kayaks to the tongue of the trailer, and run a rope from each stern grab loop up to the back of the trailer so the kayak can't slide backwards. You're doing some of this already

I make recommendations 2 and 3 because I've seen way too many kayaks come off the top of vehicles.

I have some concern about the use of rubber bungees, as well.  They are prone to break, for one thing.  I have a lot of straps, which I used in the past for securing to car top supports and have already supplemented the bungees on several trips.  The bungees are tempting because they are convenient.

The movement of each boat is restrained by two lines: One from the bow back to the trailer and one from the bow to the trailer hitch.  The first restrains forward motion; the second aft motion.  I am more concerned about restraining forward motion in the case of a sudden stop than aft motion, although I don't want the kayak(s) to slide off the trailer prematurely on a steep ramp once the bungees/straps are released.

I have painted and replaced shag carpeting on the stern with indoor/outdoor contact cemented to the trailer frame and PVC pipe (still using).

Just a quick update here on the 8" wheels - I've yet to get my trailer build thread together, but I've put about 500 miles on my 8" wheel HF kit trailer that I built out for kayaks now, mostly at highway speeds (60-65mph) and I have had zero problems. Whenever I stop I feel the bearings and they are at most barely warm to the touch. I packed them with "Green Grease". I have kept it to 65mph and below on purpose since I do understand the physics of that small of a wheel moving that fast

I'll try to report back once I've packed a bit more weight at highway speed.