bsteves anchor system

Good Link!  Thanks!

My system looks similar to the one above but made from steel with 3 guides and a pulley at the bottom.  I have no idea at this point how well it will work.

Don't forget Zeelander's article on drift anchors..
http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php?page=7

Checked Joe's today and the 3 lb anchor looks too small and the 5 lb anchor looks too big.  No roller type clam cleats either.  Did score a nice orange buoy that should look good with a NWKA sticker on it.  Need to do more shopping.

I use a 3 lb anchor with 3 lbs of chain.  It's plenty.

As for the roller cleats.. check West Marine.  I personally just use the cheaper plastic jam cleats which have no moving parts.
 

If you know what you're doing a slip knot tied through one of the pad eyes on the side of you kayak will also work in a pinch.

Use the drift anchor when in stronger currents that requires your anchor attach point to be dead center.  If you've ever anchored a bit cockeyed in a current, you know what I mean.

-Allen

Use the drift anchor when in stronger currents that requires your anchor attach point to be dead center.  If you've ever anchored a bit cockeyed in a current, you know what I mean.

-Allen

Thanks Pole2.  Sounds like a good rule of thumb.

Use the drift anchor when in stronger currents that requires your anchor attach point to be dead center.  If you've ever anchored a bit cockeyed in a current, you know what I mean.

-Allen

Thanks Pole2.  Sounds like a good rule of thumb.

That being said, I haven't seen a good drift anchor setup that is release-able.  I'm sure one could come up with one ... I got a few ideas in mind.

-Allen

I think most of them are release-able (i.e. just let all the line run through the pully) but few seem to be retrievable after release.

If you were to use an open top roller puller, then use a simple jam cleat like shown above. By attaching a float (small crab float) to the end of your rope you could easily toss the anchor (since the rope is not enclosed or run through any hardware) if needed for safety or to chase a fish. No real need to "contain the rope" by threading it through enclosed hardware, as the weigh of the anchor will keep it in place.  I will post a pic of the system I had on my drift boat that I plan to use on my yak for a drift rig.

I will post a pic of the system I had on my drift boat that I plan to use on my yak for a drift rig.

Its been like two years...still waiting on the picture...just kidding of course but I would be interested.

Use the drift anchor when in stronger currents that requires your anchor attach point to be dead center.  If you've ever anchored a bit cockeyed in a current, you know what I mean.

-Allen

So exactly how "dead center" are we talking about?  How much forgiveness?  I remember as rookies trying to drop anchor in the middle of the river and then thinking "We are going to die!" as the driftboat started swinging side to side.  It took every man (4 idiots total) timing their weight shift side to side to keep the boat from tipping. 

But now that I have assessed the situation at Deep Creek, I want to try and Anchor if safe.  40 ft of water, with max currents about 3 knots.  But that swinging experience scares me.  I am thinking it might happen by just shifting your weight?  How bad is it with these systems?  Fairly stable or does it start swinging immediately if you shift your weight away from dead center?

Everything I have read about these systems posted here sounds like it should work.  I was thinking a 6 pound downrigger ball (has fins, won't roll) might enough...maybe not.

Thoughts?  Should these systems work for my application? 

I am trying to decide on an anchor setup and have a couple questions.

1) Does the buoy serve any other purpose besides being able to retrieve it after ditching it to fight a fish?

2) If the answer to Q1 is no, is there any reason you couldn't run the anchor line though the ring, tie off to the zigzag cleat etc. and leave the winder and buoy on board until you are ready to ditch the anchor?

Allan

The buoy does two things...  1.) as you mention it lets you retrieve it after you ditch it to fight a fish and 2.) it relieves some of the downward pressure on your kayak that occurs when you anchor in current.

Is there a reason you'd want a buoy and winder on board while your fishing?  Seems like it would take up extra deck/tank well space and possibly get in the way.

Brian

2) If the answer to Q1 is no, is there any reason you couldn't run the anchor line though the ring, tie off to the zigzag cleat etc. and leave the winder and buoy on board until you are ready to ditch the anchor?

Allan

If you do this, you're hard tied to your anchor in an emergency and you're more than likely off-center from the current.

Being off center is going to put more strain on your anchor.  It can also create a swing with a hard direction change at the end.

Being hard tied to your anchor means that a floating tree could ruin you day.  It also makes it really difficult to drop off anchor when you hook up.  In the best case, dropping off anchor consists of simply pulling up on the end of your stern line.

One of the main features of the bs system is that your bow or stern line threads thru a ring on the buoy/spool assembly.  This ring slides to the end of the kayak, centering you in the current.  To release, you simply pull your bow/stern line out of its cleat.

-Spot-

Is there a reason you'd want a buoy and winder on board while your fishing?  Seems like it would take up extra deck/tank well space and possibly get in the way.

Brian

My reasoning was out of consideration for FishesTupperware's comment on the drag created by the winder and trying to find a way around floating the winder. I take it you've yet to expereince a problem with that and I'm just over thinking it?

Allan

You may also want to consider the depth of the water in which you are anchoring.  When fishing for sturgeon in 10-12' of water I left the reel at home and just brought a 50' length and a 25' extender.  I never used the extender, and 50' was plenty easy to retrieve by hand.