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Pepper and rogerdodger with a nice fall coho

Topic: Hobie revo 13 mid hatch storage?  (Read 2173 times)

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fishman

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Port Townsend, Wa
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 28
On my Hobie Revo 13, the round hatch area in front of the seat needs a way to contain fly boxes etc.  The things I put in there slide all over the place to the front and the back of the kayak. I need to maximize the space for all my things I need to easily access while fishing.
I started thinking about foam blocks shaped to the interior hull front and back to keep things reachable.   I wish Hobie had changed that mid hatch to a larger square hatch.  Any other ideas from you folks?


pmmpete

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Missoula, Montana
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 1989
Three suggestions:

1. Get a big-diameter pool noodle and jam half of it under your seat, which will keep gear from sliding way way back under the rear cargo area.  Jam the other half of it generally under your calves, which will keep gear from sliding forward into the front hatch area.

2. Even after you add the pool noodles, an item of gear such as a bilge pump can slide forward or backward and be real hard to reach when you're sitting in your kayak seat.  You may have to lie on your stomach on one of the gunwales with your feet in the water in order to grope around and grab the elusive gear.  To hold the gear at a point where it's easy to reach when you're sitting in your kayak seat, tie a couple of loops in a length of cord, tie the cord between the front and back scupper tubes, and clip the gear to the loops.

3. Get a dry bag which is small enough in diameter to fit through the hatch. and keep your lunch, suntan lotion, and other items of loose gear in the dry bag.  I have a couple of small side-loading dry duffle bags which I use for this purpose.  They protect my gear from any water which may be inside my kayak, even though I don't seal them, and I can leave them inside the hull and take gear in and out of them. 
« Last Edit: January 27, 2022, 03:39:23 PM by pmmpete »


fishman

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Port Townsend, Wa
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 28
Thank you, All of these are great ideas. I was initially thinking of some closed cell foam walls closing off the compartment but did not know where to find it. That pool noodle idea makes the most sense for me.


alpalmer

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Location: Albany, OR
  • Date Registered: Apr 2012
  • Posts: 504
Thank you, All of these are great ideas. I was initially thinking of some closed cell foam walls closing off the compartment but did not know where to find it. That pool noodle idea makes the most sense for me.

NRS has minicell foam that you could shape to size.   If you have a whitewater kayak store near to where you live, they might carry the same product.
https://www.nrs.com/search/?q=foam
"A venturesome minority will always be eager to get off on their own,
and no obstacle should be placed in their path;
let them take risk, for God sake, let them get lost, sun burnt, stranded, drowned,
eaten by bears, buried alive under avalanches -
that is the right and privilege of any free American."
--Edward Abbey--


fishman

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Port Townsend, Wa
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 28
Thank you, but I think that foam is super firm and I could not get it through the hatch hole.
Maybe I could do it in pieces and glue it together in the yak.


Captain Redbeard

  • Lauren
  • Global Moderator
  • Sturgeon
  • *****
  • Location: Portland, OR
  • Date Registered: May 2013
  • Posts: 3319
One of my favorite plastic kayak hacks is to use foam as suggested above, and hold it in place with hot-melt glue. If you're not familiar, you can get a cheap hot-melt glue gun in the craft section of most stores. In my experience, it sticks to the foam well by slightly melting it, and sticks to the kayak just well enough to provide a reasonable but removable bond. I haven't had it leave a mark when removing it. Sometimes it doesn't stick well enough, though. In these cases, try prepping the area with rubbing alcohol to remove oils.


fishman

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Port Townsend, Wa
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 28
Thank you for these ideas!


YakHunter

  • Salmon
  • ******
  • Retired!
  • Location: Wyoming
  • Date Registered: Jun 2020
  • Posts: 529
I agree with pmmpete on the pool noodles.  I have oodles of noodles wedged into my yaks to provide additional deck support, floatation, and as an aid to keep gear from disappearing into the hull (the large diameter ones work the best).  Dry bags are great also.  I picked up some decorative plastic storage boxes from Target which I can put gear into and slide to the side of the hatch.  You might have to cut down their height to fit.  I also have a tether on my bilge pump so it does not get lost.   
Hobie PA14
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fishman

  • Herring
  • **
  • Location: Port Townsend, Wa
  • Date Registered: Aug 2012
  • Posts: 28


Ling Banger

  • Sturgeon
  • *******
  • Location: Lincoln Beach, OR
  • Date Registered: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 2589
All my excess transducer cable is coiled up right there so I clip water bottles/bilge pump/dry bag with lunch to that with Scotty Clips. One of these days I'll probably glue some pad eyes under there and run a couple loops of tuna cord to clip junk to. I haven't once used the hobie hatch bucket that is supposed to fit in there.
"We're going to go fishing
And that's all there is to it." - R.P. McMurphy


 

anything