Opinion or suggestions?

Pop’s (double amputee) got a Hobie, we rigged him for trolling. Is the places I have things tethered strong enough to hold, the batteries in the box are lithium ion so there not that heavy. I was told not to trust the little plastic Hobie seat clip so tethered to the carry handle. And H bar fir the light weight watersnake. Also is the motor deep enough? He has plenty of shaft to go deeper.

I think the attach points are strong enough, is the battery box going to slide around at all or did you velcro it down? 

don't see any reason you would need the motor any deeper, that is just going to increase drag, IMO.

cheers, roger

I think the attach points are strong enough, is the battery box going to slide around at all or did you velcro it down? 

don't see any reason you would need the motor any deeper, that is just going to increase drag, IMO.

cheers, roger

Pelican box is just under the deck bungee, pops ain’t going to be fiddling around with anything behind him, I’m sure with the 2 20ah lithium ion batteries and a boat 2 battery switch being the only thing in the pelican it would likely float but I’d rather not have to go paddling around collecting his gear after getting him back on board if he does decide to go swimming.

On my i11s the top of the Bixpy motor is 11" below the bottom of the boat hull.  I don't know if that was scientifically calculated using algorithms and AI or just happens to be the way it ended up.   

I have my water snake (not that I ever use the thing), is set so the prop just clears the hull. I figure the closer it is, the more efficient it will be. May have already told you this, but I highly recommend using rudder only to steer. The water snake being in the middle of the boat, it doesn't steer well at all. I have it rigged so it stays straight. The only other issue you'll have, is if n when Pops tries to pull the motor out of the slot. Prop blades must be vertical. Sometimes takes quite a few start n stops of the motor, to get the blades to line up enough to remove the motor from the well. No way to access the prop, kinda sucks.

Mojo, if the prop isn't causing cavitation - blowing bubbles - then it's deep enough.

Once we find his depth I’m going to remove the set screw and drill one side of the shaft so once the screw is back in it can’t slide up, down , or turn. Rudder will be his turning point.

Mojo, one easy way to test the security of the battery box attachment would be to assemble everything as if he hitting the water. Do this on a set of saw horses. Get a buddy to help you flip the kayak on its side, and then completely over.

Wobble things around and see what gives.

Adjust accordingly.