DIY roller for roof rack?

Anyone have any ideas of how to build a something like the yakima hully rollers or the roller loader. 

I have a 2500 dodge long bed with a canopy and roof rack on it so it's kind of a pain to lift 2 yaks up there.  When i'm by myself it's almost impossible to get my yak up there and down without stratching up the truck or falling off the tallgate.  I figure that with some type of rollers on the back edge of the roof rack it would be much easier to get them up and down.  I just don't want to pay 80 bucks a pair.  I think I could come up with something much easier. 

Pete

If you have a round bar on your canopy something simple like plastic conduit over your bar works pretty good.

If you are currently using saddles and want rollers instead I have two sets I'll trade you straight across.

I have square bars on the roof rack.  Sorry no saddles.  I just have the black pipe insulation on there right now. 

I never got around to it, but I'd planned to put a pool noodle covered pipe roller/rack on the top of my Vanagon to roll my boat on top.

That's basically what I did to get it up there anyway (sans the roller). I'd pick up one end of the boat and set it on the top, then grab the other end and side it up. The top of the van was fiberglass and did not scratch (at least not too much). Biggest problem was keeping the boat from sliding around when I stood it on its end.

I eventually solved that problem by getting a trailer and a pick-up with a bed extender (and getting rid of the Vanagon )

I may have to revisit that idea when I acquire my "new" yak hauler Astro van.

I have this same dilemma.  I have the Thule heavy duty commercial van rack on my truck.  Problem is there are NO accessories sold for it so you have to cannibalize and modify other applications.

So now that I've had my new 16' yak for a little over two weeks I'm finding, with my bad back, I need help getting it on and off the truck/camper shell.  This is very inconvenient so I'm looking to modify/mfg something myself ASAP.

When talking to Thule earlier this week this is what they suggested.  http://www.thule.com/en/US/Products/Watersports/WatersportCarriers/196658.aspx  but that seems like overkill (and spendy for two units)

Greg

I have a 2500 dodge long bed with a canopy and roof rack on it so it's kind of a pain to lift 2 yaks up there.  When i'm by myself it's almost impossible to get my yak up there and down without stratching up the truck or falling off the tallgate.  I figure that with some type of rollers on the back edge of the roof rack it would be much easier to get them up and down.  I just don't want to pay 80 bucks a pair.  I think I could come up with something much easier. 

Pete

I have the Thule Glide & Set on my little Nissan Truck.  It is similar to the Hully Roller, and a bit less cost. 

http://www.thule.com/en/US/Products/Watersports/WatersportCarriers/13706.aspx

The rear saddle is slick and the front saddles are non-slip rubber.  I lift the bow onto the slick saddle, lift and shove, then lower the bow onto the non-slip saddle.  Climb onto the bed and lift the bow end for final positioning.  It has worked well.  The one problem is dragging the stern on the ground when lifting the bow onto the slick saddle.  I built a wooden skid.

I have this same dilemma.  I have the Thule heavy duty commercial van rack on my truck.  Problem is there are NO accessories sold for it so you have to cannibalize and modify other applications.

So now that I've had my new 16' yak for a little over two weeks I'm finding, with my bad back, I need help getting it on and off the truck/camper shell.  This is very inconvenient so I'm looking to modify/mfg something myself ASAP.

When talking to Thule earlier this week this is what they suggested.  http://www.thule.com/en/US/Products/Watersports/WatersportCarriers/196658.aspx  but that seems like overkill (and spendy for two units)

The problem I see the Thule Slipstream solving is the "get over the trunk" problem for a sedan-like vehicle.  The frame slides straight out and as far as I can tell it does not tilt.  Whether you are lifting onto a truck-like rack or the Slipstream it seem you will have to lift the bow just as high. 

Now, some sort of tilting system might make life easier.

I was thinking I could use some boat roller from a trailer kind of like this one and attach it with some u bolts.  I may have to drill some new holes since the tubing is only 1" thick.  But this may helps.   Thoughts?

I have the Thule Glide & Set on my little Nissan Truck.  It is similar to the Hully Roller, and a bit less cost. 

http://www.thule.com/en/US/Products/Watersports/WatersportCarriers/13706.aspx

The rear saddle is slick and the front saddles are non-slip rubber.  I lift the bow onto the slick saddle, lift and shove, then lower the bow onto the non-slip saddle.  Climb onto the bed and lift the bow end for final positioning.  It has worked well.  The one problem is dragging the stern on the ground when lifting the bow onto the slick saddle.  I built a wooden skid.

wooden skid?

SD

I was thinking I could use some boat roller from a trailer kind of like this one and attach it with some u bolts.  I may have to drill some new holes since the tubing is only 1" thick.  But this may helps.   Thoughts?

I was looking at those the other day in Fisherman's for the same reason.  I usually use my trailer, but sometimes its not possible so I have to strap it on top of a vehicle. It seams like I'm always either smackin' myself or the paint on the vehicle.

The rear saddle is slick and the front saddles are non-slip rubber.  I lift the bow onto the slick saddle, lift and shove, then lower the bow onto the non-slip saddle.  Climb onto the bed and lift the bow end for final positioning.  It has worked well.  The one problem is dragging the stern on the ground when lifting the bow onto the slick saddle.  I built a wooden skid.

wooden skid?

Rather than describe it I just shot a photo.  The right side slides over the stern skeg.  The bungee loops over the top of the stern in front of the rudder.  The block on the bottom of the left side of the skid hooks over the frame of a Wheelez cart.  

Rather than describe it I just shot a photo.  The right side slides over the stern skeg.  The bungee loops over the top of the stern in front of the rudder.  The block on the bottom of the left side of the skid hooks over the frame of a Wheelez cart.  
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Thanks Demonick
Just might make one of those.....
I don't like the way the underside is starting to look!!

SD

I saw Holt's really slick looking Yakima roller that telescopes out on it arms for loading/unloading, and then telescopes back in for on the road. Sounded expensive, but that thing really works! Got me into a concoctin' kind of mood, so I started digging around in my junque piles...

I made a roller bar out of 2 pieces of aluminum conduit, some padding cannibalized off old surf racks, a piece of plywood scrap, an old broom handle, a pvc connector, a cotter pin, and a clevis pin, some foam chunks, some old primer and a can of spray paint left over from another project.

All of the above materials were found in my garage. I spent no additional coinage on this project.

About the two pieces of aluminum conduit: one miraculously fit inside of the other! And the broom handle fit snugly into the inner conduit (had to drive it in with a hammer), further reinforcing it. I covered the roller bar with the old surf rack pads (like pipe insulation, but not sliced down one side), since they also were a lucky perfect fit.
The plywood scrap was cut into two arms, which hook over my rear Yakima bar next to the towers. The foam chunks were cut to make two pads, for where the arms rest on the rear of my Forester. I eventually primed and then spray painted the arms black.
The pvc connector was cut in two, and each half used as a bushing in the holes I cut into each arm for the roller bar ends (another lucky perfect fit!).  I epoxied these into the holes I drilled in the arms, then did the painting.
I slid the bar ends into the bushings, and secured them with a cotter pin on one end of bar, and a removeable clevis pin on the other end. Not only does the outer conduit spin over the inner one, but the whole roller spins within the bushings, making it roll very easily under load.  I can disassemble the roller bar for travel if I want to, simply by removing the clevis pin.
Works great to load my 75 lb (bare weight with pole holder bases, compass, etc. added) Tarpon 140. Turned out OK, thanks to all the luck I had getting all the found parts to fit!

I'll take a pic of the thing and post if, if anyone wants to see it. (Not much to look at).

I used to have some custom fabbed heavy duty roller racks made from heater hose over stainless bar that I got from a commercial fisherman friend.
I sold the truck I'd put them on, but wish I would have removed those first! One of them would have been perfect for using as a roller on a utility trailer, on the rear end for loading a drift boat or pram. I liked the heater hose, because its really tuff, and rolls well over stainless bars.

didn't Revo Roy build an auto loader and post it here? I looked but can't seem to find it now.
 It was very slick, with a small electric motor to do the lifting for you.
great for those of us with a bad back.