Another quick release anchor system

I just re-built and put the finishing touches on my anchor system so here's a write-up on it.  The basic idea behind this setup is taken from bsteves' anchor system.  I changed some things mainly because I didn't want to use a chord winder, even though that very well may be the easiest way to deal with the anchor line.  I also took some ideas from pelagic paddler's setup. 
I'm calling this the Hook Knot anchor system.  I'll try and add a video of it in action later if I can remember to film it sometime.

The buoy harness consists of an A-0 size anchor ball and a big crab pot float I found on the beach - the use of these two floats came from Pelagic's system.  I used 3 strand poly rope, mainly because of it's durability and ease of being spliced.  I think the diameter of the line is 1/4 inch.



I used a cow hitch and a zip tie and a brass ring for the end that goes to the kayak so I can take the crab pot float off for whatever reason. 



I used a stopper knot and another brass ring and brass clip for the connection of the ball float so I can take it off too. 





For the connection of the buoy harness to the anchor I used a hook from an old tie down strap.



To make the connection I grab a bight of line after I've dropped anchor and floated downstream a bit, then tie this knot:

Bring a bight of line through the ring.


Bring the bight of line back through the ring again.


Place the bight over the hook and tighten


Take the anchor end and place it so it is guided through the bend in the hook and pull tight.




This may seem too complicated but after I tied it a few times it became really easy and it will not slip.  It is also easier to do while in a Hobie since you can hold your position and use your hands, but I was able to do this while in my old X-Factor so it can be done in a paddle kayak.

For my anchor line I use sections of line that are roughly 40 feet with loops on both ends.  I have three of them but seem to only ever need two.  If I need less than 80 ft. I quickly wrap up the excess and tuck it into the bungee on the crab pot float but I usually almost always just use the full 80 feet.  This has worked for both sturgeon in the Willy and Chinook on the Columbia.  I feed the anchor line into the dry bag starting with the end that would go to the buoy harness so the last line in is the line closest to the anchor.  It isn't simply grabbed and stuffed in, but it isn't neatly faked in either.  This works surprisingly well.  When the anchor is dropped I just let the line pay out of the bag and it never tangles around itself as it comes out.



I also put a clip on the D-ring of the dry bag that clips to the anchor for easy carrying.



On my Revo I have a line for the bow and stern which both work exactly the same way.  They are long enough for the kayak and the buoy harness to be around three or four feet apart when the kayak is hooked into the harness on the river.

On the front, the line is attached to the front metal eyelet for the handle and on the back the line is attached to the handle line itself. 







As long as the line on the back stays on the starboard side of the kayak it does not interfere with the rudder even when the rudder is pulled up or down.

Both the bow and stern lines hook to the same jam cleat in the cockpit.



Bow line hooked in.


Stern line hooked in.

Some relevant questions from another thread:

I did have a couple of questions I am not sure why you have the crab float and the anchor ball? Do they serve a different purpose or make it easier to get the anchor?

The main reason I like two buoys is so I don't drop my anchor and buoy setup only to see it disappear into the river because the flow it too high.  If the flow is too much for the ball, the crab pot float can still be above water if the ball ducks under.  Also, it's easier to see with two buoys.  In places that have high pb traffic it's nice for boats to be able to see your buoys well if you drop off your anchor to fight a fish.

Also, I could not quite tell from your pictures how your anchor rope goes through the front carabiner.  Do you have to reach to the front to thread it through or is your setup like a trolley?

Here are some videos I made with my old kayak.  The buoy system shown is different, but the way my new kayak hooks up to the bouy system is the same as what I am using now.





I'll try to get some updated videos up soon.

Rawkfish I was looking at your video and I was wondering. When you anchor in a powerboat you anchor with your bow into the current. The same as you were anchored. But when your in a power boat the seats face rearward for fishing, in a yak your seat faces forward. So how do you sit so you can drift your line behind your boat ? Do you just face forward and cast out to the side and place your rod in a pole holder ahead of you so you can tend it. Is it awkward when reeling in to re-bait?

I have a bow and stern line which are both set up in the same fashion so once I drop my anchor and buoy harness in the river, I can use either the bow or stern line to hook up to it.  So I can anchor either pointed upstream or downstream.  As an example, for chinook in the Columbia it's better to anchor pointed downstream and for sturgeon on the Willy I'll anchor pointed upstream.

I recognize that fancy pyramid anchor you have, and can't remember which size that was, 8.5#, or 11#?

Curious how it holds your Revo in the big C for Nook fishing?  I have one of each weight still, so I'm prepared either way if it holds good.  I plan to target salmon, steel head and sturgeon next year now that I am not glued to the garage as much. 

I was hoglining yesterday at Ridgefield (NOT in a kayak, but I did land a 20lb Chinook) and was wondering if any kayakers do this. I have a Hobie Tandem Island and would like to try the Columbia out of Washougal. I'm thinking two could fish nicely from the trampolines while anchored from the bow. Anyone out there ever do this? Any advice? Anyone interested in going with me?

excellent pictures and a detailed setup.  Nice.

is there a reason to having a bouy AND a crab float?

I recognize that fancy pyramid anchor you have, and can't remember which size that was, 8.5#, or 11#?

Curious how it holds your Revo in the big C for Nook fishing?  I have one of each weight still, so I'm prepared either way if it holds good.  I plan to target salmon, steel head and sturgeon next year now that I am not glued to the garage as much. 

Yessir, that would be one of your 11# babies.  It held very well the last time I was out which was during an ebb tide.  I wouldn't go with any less weight though.  I was anchored in around 25 feet and used about 80 feet of scope. 

is there a reason to having a bouy AND a crab float?

(See first reply)

Yessir, that would be one of your 11# babies.  It held very well the last time I was out which was during an ebb tide.  I wouldn't go with any less weight though.  I was anchored in around 25 feet and used about 80 feet of scope. 

Thanks, I'll keep 11# just for this kind of fishing.  When I built  those, I had no clue what the ending weight would be on either size, but if it holds in the Big C I'm stoked!

I used my 8.5#'r in Hagg on a windy day and it held like a rock with barely any scope. 
Also held me really well in Sand Lake Estuary against the huge incoming flow.  Futile attempt at flounder fishing.